CraigA - I kind of thought as much, but thanks for clarifying just the same.
Regarding the rock/pebble being the culprit, I sure can't swear to whether or not a small rock didn't cause the problem. I didn't bother to look for one after it all started. I purchased the roasted coffee from Red Bird in a 5 lb quantity, and have never seen anything but beans from them before. I may just add straining the beans to my steps in the future.
I'm really bumming now. I decided to upgrade and go for a new Compak K3 Touch on Friday. I placed my order Friday morning and payed for 2-day express shipping. Woke up this morning looking forward to taking delivery of my new grinder today. Instead, I just got an email notice from the online store that my order had shipped. I clicked the UPS tracking link and learned that it's scheduled to arrive end of business... Friday! I contacted them and was told that the shipper (it was drop shipped) didn't bother to read the order carefully enough and sent it standard. I know, whah, whah, whah. What really torques me off is I kept my business local to support a store in my home state, payed a premium price and this is my reward. Yeah, I'm hacked off! They of course will deduct the $23 I payed for 2-day and offered to compensate me with a lb. of coffee for the delay inconvenience. But I could have saved $100 if I'd gone elsewhere and I'd probably have it before Friday.
CraigA...I posted the rock question as your comic foil...so you'd answer as you did, if only to remind those NEW to quality grinders like the Vario/Preciso, that is always a good idea to check your green before you roast, and if purchasing roasted, take a peek at the coffee. Stones/rocks can be REALLY hard to see.
Yeah Ethiopian, Mexican, Sumatran, etc., or any coffees that are dried on concrete patios or slabs. When they're raking & turning the coffee to dry & then shovelling/sweeping up the dried coffee, small pieces of the old concrete patio surface inevitably can break & flake away & get processed with the coffee just like small rocks, stones, nails, etc.
Speaking of, here's what looks like a piece of concrete that a friend of mine found in a batch of his home-roasted Ethiopian Aleta Wondo (dry-processed).
I have a Preciso, no problems yet. I am wondering why the Baratza line, and especially the Preciso seems to find all of the foreign material. I am not seeing this problem in all of the other brands.
I have a Preciso, no problems yet. I am wondering why the Baratza line, and especially the Preciso seems to find all of the foreign material. I am not seeing this problem in all of the other brands.
I think one of the reasons why you hear so much about Baratza machines in general is that they are fantastic grinders that really cover all price ranges. You'll notice that they are talked about a lot on the forums and I don't think this is just because people have a lot to say about them, but rather a lot of people have and use them compared to other brands. Whether an entry level MP (encore) an upgrade to a Virtuoso, or an espresso user and their Vario, they are popular grinders. So it seems only natural that more reports come to the service. Just my thought.
Will a foreign body like above go through other grinders without causing problems? Is this all about adjustment rings breaking? Not trying to raise a problem, as I really like the Preciso, just trying to understand.
Will a foreign body like above go through other grinders without causing problems? Is this all about adjustment rings breaking? Not trying to raise a problem, as I really like the Preciso, just trying to understand.
A rock or other piece of foreign material will halt other grinders as well. Before they updated the gear box, the adjustment ring breaking was a sort of fail safe for the grinder. Their new gearbox shuts the burrs off if they get jammed, so the gears are not damaged. According to the blurb they wrote up on the Encore, the new 2.0 gearbox was tested by throwing handfuls of screws into the hoppers with the grinders running.
I have limited experience with grinders experiencing foreign matter, but have read of pieces of cement, wood, or rocks fouling up gears and burrs on all different brands.
Will a foreign body like above go through other grinders without causing problems? Is this all about adjustment rings breaking? Not trying to raise a problem, as I really like the Preciso, just trying to understand.
I had a stone lock up my Mazzer SJ, a very large commercial grinder. That's one reason I'm ever vigilant.
The difference is that Baratza is in a position to help their customers self repair, usually at a minimal cost, if the grinder happens to be out of the warranty period...even then, they bend over backwards to make sure to get you up and running as quickly as possible. HINT..purchase your grinder with an American Express card, and you'll get an extra year of warranty free from Amex.
I took the case off my Preciso this morning to give the internal area a good cleaning as I know that grounds can accumulate a bit inside. More or less, I had some free time and though it'd be nice to open it up, clean it, and have a look around. I want to share my little adventure...
I also wanted to see if I could get the little tab that creates the clicks when you twist the hopper to click a little little better and had read that the adjustment ring can be easily removed. Upon removing the case up and off, I noticed that the entire adjustment ring seemed to lift off in the back with the black base ring that it sits on, so it was crooked. I think it might have caught on the edge of the case as I lifted it off. It looks as if the base for the adjustment ring wasn't glued down or anything as it was attached and lifted off with the ring. I decided to remove the entire adjustment ring and gave it a good look over for issues or wear and tare, but it looked great. Unsure about what to do/expect as far as the adjustment ring's base, I just made sure the hopper tabs were at the 6 and 12 and lined up the base's peg with the little hole at the back of the white burr area. It all clicked right into place and I moved the micro adjustment arm back to the 6 o'clock. The whole area seemed back to normal and I also had a chance to get the clicker tab seated a bit better. Upon putting the casing back on and feeling the hopper clicks, it clicks a bit more smoothly.
All in all, I was impressed with how easily the adjustment mechanism can be popped off or back on for repairs. If my adjustment ring were to develop an issue or wear down over time, I can rest easy knowing how simple it is to replace. I'm assuming that the reason that the base of the adjustment ring remained attached was because the micro arm was in the 6 o'clock position when the adjustment mechanism was unseated. I believe that it can be released if the micro arm is set to a certain location around the ring. That is just a guess though.
My machine is calibrated in the fine window but more towards the neutral window. I get a grind for my V60 around 18-22 based on my experience with many different beans. Some need to go even a notch finer and some even coarser. I have a bean currently that see,s to want 17-18 for a V60. I assume that my espresso range would be 5-7 based on these numbers. I know that my press pot grind is around 30.
I just wanted to share my experience, as I learned a lot about my grinder not only from having it open but from having the adjustment ring pop up on me. I would say that a replacement adjustment ring would take me no more than 15 minutes from start to finish to replace. Has anyone else had a similar experience getting to know their Preciso a bit more for whatever reason?
At first I was worried that I was going to put it back together incorrectly, but it seems that as long as the cutout on the macro collar is in the right spot and the adjustment ring as a whole it lined up, it is a piece of cake to literally snap back on. If I am wrong with my assumption of how easy it was to put back together, someone please let me know so I can go in and fix it lol
I also wanted to see if I could get the little tab that creates the clicks when you twist the hopper to click a little little better and had read that the adjustment ring can be easily removed. Upon removing the case up and off, I noticed that the entire adjustment ring seemed to lift off in the back with the black base ring that it sits on, so it was crooked. I think it might have caught on the edge of the case as I lifted it off. It looks as if the base for the adjustment ring wasn't glued down or anything as it was attached and lifted off with the ring. I decided to remove the entire adjustment ring and gave it a good look over for issues or wear and tare, but it looked great. Unsure about what to do/expect as far as the adjustment ring's base, I just made sure the hopper tabs were at the 6 and 12 and lined up the base's peg with the little hole at the back of the white burr area. It all clicked right into place and I moved the micro adjustment arm back to the 6 o'clock. The whole area seemed back to normal and I also had a chance to get the clicker tab seated a bit better. Upon putting the casing back on and feeling the hopper clicks, it clicks a bit more smoothly.
The base for the calibration ring assembly snaps over 3 equidistant protrusions/nubbins on the outside circumference of the gear housing. You can see one of them at approximately 11:30am.
I'm assuming that the reason that the base of the adjustment ring remained attached was because the micro arm was in the 6 o'clock position when the adjustment mechanism was unseated. I believe that it can be released if the micro arm is set to a certain location around the ring. That is just a guess though.
Yes, it remained seated & attached because it was locked into its travel range. Once the casing is off however, the calibration arm assembly is free to move further left than the designed limit of the indexing bezels range, & then can be released by moving the Micro arm to the far left & the assembly will then detach when the calibration assemblies bottom 3 tabs match & index to the 3 tabs of the bottom locking ring.
Damage to the whole assembly can usually be avoided (once you have released the bottom 4 case tabs), by pushing the entire inner guts out with the thumbs of your hands.
At first I was worried that I was going to put it back together incorrectly, but it seems that as long as the cutout on the macro collar is in the right spot and the adjustment ring as a whole it lined up, it is a piece of cake to literally snap back on. If I am wrong with my assumption of how easy it was to put back together, someone please let me know so I can go in and fix it lol
As above, but customers have damaged their grinders trying to install replacement parts, by not understanding how the parts dis-assemble & re-assemble..
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