1. With a Stupentown, is it better to roast with or without a springform that raises the heating element? I've seen postings recommending both, and I would think adding this would increase roasing times. For those who've used both, what has produced a better, quality roasted bean?
   
   
2. Should the Stir Crazy heating element be disconnected? Again, some seem to argue for and other against disconnecting the heating element. Can anyone comment on the difference between roasts? Also, this may sound like a very stupid question but, how do you disconnect the heating element? I couldn't find a posting on this,  but I'm guessing it's very easy.
   
   
3. Is there any value in increasing/decreasing temps during the roast? I've seen some folks who have attempted to setup roasting profiles, others who have kept it a constant temp, others who have done pre-heating. What's worked the best in terms of starting and ramp-up temps?
   
   
4. What is the best mod to make on the SC? I've seen some folks add just a couple of barrier strips, others who have done this and have also added some "spacers". If "spacers" are important, what the heck are they and where can I find them?
   
   
5. Finally, I've seen lots of discussion around replacing the nut in the SC. Some have recommended a cap on top, and I've seen some recommendations for using foil under the cap, and also a recommendation to use some kind of an insulated foam? If I just replace the SC with a different nut, is that sufficient or should I really get the additional cap on top?
   
   

1.  I've found a spacer works better than not with one.  I made one out of a 3" wide piece of cardboard, staples at the ends and wrapped in several layers of foil.
   
   
2. I disconnected mine, I found to have a bit better control of temp, especially after 1st crack.  It's easy to disconnect, remove the plate on the bottom and tape off the wires.
   
   
3. for 1/2# to 1# batches I have mine set to 390 the whole time and reach the start of 2nd crack at approx 12 and 16 min respectively.
   
   
4. I wrapped a wad of foil around one of the arms (arm is still flat against the base), seems to stir better.
   
   
5. I wrapped ~7 layers of foil over the nut.  The oven will scorch/melt.  Between the covering the nut and using a spacer, that seems to work.

1. I've tried it both ways.  With springform spacer, the roast is more even when I roast more than 350 grams.
   
   
2. Disconnected. I taped the disconnected wire ends with electrician's tape and then put wire nuts on them.
   
   
3. I preheat for 5 minutes, then set the roaster to 450.  I reduce it a little at the end of 1st crack to draw out the time between first and second.
   
   
4. I put 2 "barrier strips" on each stirring arm.  Bought at Radio Shack -- European-style barrier strips.  The part you need is inside a plastic body.  You must cut the plastic away to get at the pieces.
   
   
5. Replaced the plastic nut with a wingnut, and put a foil-filled copper cap over it.  
   
   

1.  I've tried both ways and like to use the springform. I seem to get a more uniform roast with it.
   
   
2.  I left it on for the first roast but disconnected it after that. I seem to get more control over the roast without it.
   
   
3.  My rig only has 9 roasts on it so far and I am still experimenting with different settings and 'profiles'. I've found that not preheating seems to get a slightly sweeter roast.
   
   
4.  Barrier strips are about the only mod I've tried except for #5 below. I'm not entirely satisfied with them since I get a lot of reversals until the beans reach 1st crack. After first the beans get light enough that the reversals stop.
   
   
5.  Copper has a major effect on my taste so I don't like the idea of a cap (unless it was made of stainless). I tried the new nut with a larger washer, but was still getting some melting on the shaft. I ended up replacing the entire drive shaft assembly with stainless steel using a 1/4 socket (fits on the motor shaft), bolt, washers & nuts. These items cost me $6.37, well worth it.
   
   

1. I started with the oven setting directly on the Stir Crazy unit and found the roast uneven and quick.   IMHO the advantage to raising the CO unit is to allow for the air to circulate and even out.  It will also allow for more adjustment possibilities.
   
   
2. I have disconnected the heating element on my SC.  Can’t say I ever roasted with the unit on so I can’t speak to its pros or cons.  I think I read in my manual that the heating element is rated to approach around 475o but I could be wrong.  Unless you are having a problem reaching temps with just the CO, I wouldn’t leave the heating element connected.  I found out recently that the beans can roast too quickly even with it disconnected.
   
   
3. As far as the advantages of adjusting the temps, that will be up to you.  My first few roasts were done without adjusting the temp on the CO at all.  And they turned out pretty well.  But I have since then found (thanks to the denizens of this fine forum) that I can tweak my roasts by extending the time between C1 and C2 with temp adjustments.  Guess it will all depend on your level of comfort in playing with the roasting process.  But the main point is that you have the capability.
   
   
4. As far as what mods are best, again, that would be up to you.  I use 4 of the “barrier strip”.  Two on each stirring arm, one on the end and then one in the middle.  The ones in the middle are offset so that they don’t follow the same path.  A note on using the barrier strips if you go that route.  Don’t try to cut the plastic off.  If you remove the screws completely from the “tubes”, the metal piece will slide right out from the plastic.  At least they did on the ones I got from Radio Shack.  The plastic is a tough nylon material and doesn’t cut easily.  Your appendages will though.
   
   
5. I didn’t originally replace my plastic nut.  Unfortunately, I didn’t protect it well enough with the 1 1/2” copper cap and foil and it melted on me.  My fix was to drill into the composite post and screw in a shortened screw that comes with those planter hooks (fine threads on one end and wood screw threads on the other) so I could put a nut and washer on it to hold down the arms.  I then covered the new “post” with foil and a 1” copper cap.  To date this has worked fine.
   
   

djs134 Said:

I gather that you mean a 1/4" socket extention.  The male end would fit into the motor, so then you screwed the bolt down into the female end of the shaft?

Posted March 25, 2005 link

djs134 Said:

Is this the assembly?

Posted March 25, 2005 link