I roast 10-12 oz at a time. Using roasterthing and beans that I've roasted on P1 before, I should be able to figure out how to combine a pre-heat with P2 so that the power drop happens right before (possibly right after the beginning of) 1C. The issue though is that the increase back to 100% wouldn't occur for a long time (probably after I'm done with the roast). Is this OK or unlikely to yield good results?
I roast 10-12 oz at a time. Using roasterthing and beans that I've roasted on P1 before, I should be able to figure out how to combine a pre-heat with P2 so that the power drop happens right before (possibly right after the beginning of) 1C. The issue though is that the increase back to 100% wouldn't occur for a long time (probably after I'm done with the roast). Is this OK or unlikely to yield good results?
If it doesn't stall out the roast, and the timing is right it should yield good results. For that reason, I would try and target P2 power drop about 10-15 seconds AFTER 1C. It isn't easy but satisfying when you do it.
Or you could do the open-the-door-to-simulate-P2-power-drop-on-P1 method. But if you do, don't open the door all the way, and it is best if you can use temperature as a guide.
Good luck!
------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------- Le café doit être noir comme le diable, chaud comme l'enfer, pur comme un ange, et doux comme l'amour.
"There is no right answer with coffee. There is only the elixir in your cup at the moment you partake."
"...I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind;..." - Lord Kelvin RECIPES thread => http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/machines/585708
I've used only this profile for a few years and usually get good results targeting 1C to start about 1.5 minutes prior to the power drop. This provides some flexibility in case 1C happens a bit early or later than planned (i.e., if its early then you are not so far before the power drop thereby reducing the chance of running directly to 2C from too much heat; if its a bit late then you still have enough 100% power to reduce the risk of stalling during 1C). There no real need to use the last stage of the profile unless you want a dark roast as the middle stage usually provides enough heat to get to 2C or just before and is also less likely to scorch the beans. Bean loads will vary depending on your specific circumstances but keep in mind that larger bean loads will not roast as fast after the power drop so if you are trying to hit 2C this will be another consideration. If you go a little light on the bean load to optimize post 1C performance you may need to bleed off some heat w/ occaisional limited door opening during the ramp to 1C to avoid hitting it too early. I usually monitor the timing of the onset of yellowing and then browning to get a feel for how the roast is progressing relative to the target. I have the older chaff tray and low voltage so YMMV but I have done loads that range from 7.5 oz to 11oz using 1lb P2 B or C settings (B power drops at approx 12:00min, C drops at 12:54ish). Probably best not to continue roasting much beyond 5 minutes past the start of 1C to avoid baking.
I roast 10-12 oz at a time. Using roasterthing and beans that I've roasted on P1 before, I should be able to figure out how to combine a pre-heat with P2 so that the power drop happens right before (possibly right after the beginning of) 1C. The issue though is that the increase back to 100% wouldn't occur for a long time (probably after I'm done with the roast). Is this OK or unlikely to yield good results?
Responding to a previous thread, I mentioned that I was roasting 10 oz of Sumatra Mandheling and sometimes Sweet Maria's Monkey Blend using 1 lb, P3, A or B, and my total roast time was around 20 min.
IMAWriter (Rob J) was nice enough to tell me that my roast time was much too high and perhaps I had low voltage (a common cause).
I went back over my records and over 15+ roasts, with voltage variations from 117 to 121.5 my roast times were 18 +/-2 min on P3.
So am I baking my roasts? A bit of extraneous information is that I have NO BLOOM.
So a few days ago I did a roast, 10 oz, set at 1 lb., P1, B. The roast was completed in 16 min. (117.5V) so ...it was 4 minutes less. Was that progress?
NOW, to get to your point, Barry, if I had used P2 I would have dropped into the 'notch' at 13 min (just at the onset of the 1CR) and emerged from the 'notch' at 18 min (around the onset of the 2CR) and my total roast time would have been extended. beyond the 16 min.
That leaves me wondering about two things:
Is my Behmor underpowered? I have a Kill-A-Watt meter and it seems to be doing the right things. I plug it into my stove outlet, 120V from a 208Y120 feeder with no other loads. When running the voltage seldom drops below 116.
Is my Behmor underpowered? I have a Kill-A-Watt meter and it seems to be doing the right things. I plug it into my stove outlet, 120V from a 208Y120 feeder with no other loads. When running the voltage seldom drops below 116.
Your roast progress sounds comparable to mine so your roaster is probably performing ok. A good cleaning of everything can improve performance if it hasn't been done in a while. It seems after a few years of weekly roasting mine appears to be weakening a bit but I have adjusted by reducing the batch sizes a tad.
To reduce roast times my recommendation would be to reduce the bean load to 7.5 or 8 oz and try to hit 1C around 10:30 elapsed using the 1lb P2 B profile. Try a central american or other "hard bean" that can take the heat (Brazil not recommended for such testing as it may scorch). Time the roast from the start w/ a stopwatch and take note of when 1C starts going (beyond just the first rouge pops) and stop the roast manually between 3 and 5 minutes beyond that point (3 might be a City+ roast while 5 might be closer to full city or beyond). Results will depend on your specific conditions, therefore, its important to get a feel for the degree of roast achieved based on your specific conditions and adjust bean load, any door opening, and timing of the stop to optimize the next time. Over time you get a feel for what works and will be able to pre-judge the behavior of different types of coffee. It does take some concentrated effort and tolerance for some hits and misses before you can use this consistently but as with most things in life....no pain...no gain. :)
Thanks everyone. I'll try something like P2C 1lb with a two minute preheat and 12 oz of beans (I'll fine tune it based on my specific experience with previous roasts). That should get the power drop occuring in the middle of 1C. I use roasterthing which makes it really easy. I select duplicate roast using a P1 roast that I've done and select P2C 1lb. I can then see how the curves line up and how long to preheat.
Symbols: = New Posts since your last visit = No New Posts since last visit = Newest post
Forum Rules: No profanity, illegal acts or personal attacks will be tolerated in these discussion boards. No commercial posting of any nature will be tolerated; only private sales by private individuals, in the "Buy and Sell" forum. No cross posting allowed - do not post your topic to more than one forum, nor repost a topic to the same forum. Who Can Read The Forum? Anyone can read posts in these discussion boards. Who Can Post New Topics? Any registered CoffeeGeek member can post new topics. Who Can Post Replies? Any registered CoffeeGeek member can post replies. Can Photos be posted? Anyone can post photos in their new topics or replies. Who can change or delete posts? Any CoffeeGeek member can edit their own posts. Only moderators can delete posts. Probationary Period: If you are a new signup for CoffeeGeek, you cannot promote, endorse, criticise or otherwise post an unsolicited endorsement for any company, product or service in your first five postings.