Hello All: I purchased my Technivorm Clubline KB 741 from WLL about 5 months ago. I use the machine daily, but noticed early on that the red light on the power rocker flickers. I thought it might be an issue with the power outlet, so I tried several different outlets around my apartment with the same result. Does is sound like a faulty electrical connection? Coffee seems to brew just fine, but I guess I was expecting perfection from a $200+ coffee maker. The dripstop allowing coffee to drip onto the hot plate is my main complaint/disappointment with the machine. Thanks, Neal
I purchased my Technivorm Clubline KB 741 from WLL about 5 months ago. I use the machine daily, but noticed early on that the red light on the power rocker flickers. I thought it might be an issue with the power outlet, so I tried several different outlets around my apartment with the same result. Does is sound like a faulty electrical connection?
The power indicator light is in parallel with the L1 & L2 power line (line one & line two) of the AC circuit & won't have any effect on the operation of the brewer. The little neon light is going flaky inside (the neon gas) & I hope this is the right terminology, but the gas isn't ionizing properly/intermittently to complete its circuit & causing the flickering.
Thank you for the information. I emailed Technivorm and will report back if they have any additional info to offer. I have emailed them with questions before, and their responses are sometimes amusing to read. I think something gets lost in translation :)
Posted Sat Apr 19, 2008, 7:32pm Subject: Re: Technivorm Problem?
Here is TV's response:
"There are two switches on your coffee maker, are both lights flickering or is it just the power switch?
If both switches have the same “problem”, the flickering is caused by the supply voltage on the power outlet.
The signal lights of the switches are gas-discharge light (neon lights) with a rated voltage from 110 – 250 Vac.
If the voltage is close to 110 V or less, the neon light starts flickering.
If it is just one switch, we can send you some new switches, free of charge, so you can replace the switches by yourself or have it replaced by a qualified person.
The dripstop consists of nothing more than a hole in the plastic on the cone side and a rubber disk mounted by way of a rubber tit into a plastic plate that has a shaft at one end allowing a spring steel clip to rotate the disk against the hole, or away from the hole. If your unit drips in the closed position, look for a burr or piece of junk lodged in the hole or on the rubber disk. Check for the spring clip being properly inserted into the plastic plate. With a less than technically inclined eyeball inspection you should be able to clear this issue without a lot of problem. The only fatal flaw I could imagine is having a crack adjacent to the hole in the cone or another type of manufacturing defect in the hole or plate. If you have a fatal flaw I can't imagine WLL not being willing to send you a new cone assembly. They were bitchy with me a while back over a broken package but I hear they've since gotten religion......
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