True and I really enjoy it. Now that I've paired it with the Preciso I really feel I have the control I've been lacking. The Zass did a fine job, make no mistake, but moving to this thing has really upped my game. The advice you read that the grinder is more important than the machine is spot on. If you are going down the espresso road, make sure your grinder is up to the task. In the case of the Europicolla, minor adjustments are mandatory. Just grinding "fine" isn't enough. (I assume this is true for most espresso machines but possibly not to the same degree)
Now I'm not saying a Pavoni is for everyone. You really have to enjoy the process at least as much as the result. But, that said, it can make a truely outstanding pull, most times (once you have a decent idea of controlling the variables).
Posted Thu Jul 7, 2011, 7:26pm Subject: Re: Confessions of a Brikka Lover
Sigh...... I've had it with this thing. I'm certain now that the manufacturer looked at a pod basket and mistook it for a grounds basket. It's like a bootleg version of a real espresso machine. I can probably improve things by buying an aftermarket double basket (and maybe a portafilter also) for it but, frankly, I don't think it's even worth the time and money. I've decided to stick with my Moka Pot for now and eventually get a Brikka sooner or later. After that, I'll start saving up for a Gaggia.
UPDATE:
On a more positive note, I tried delaying the heat decrease during my next moka brew and it worked great. The pour was as smooth as it could get and hardly any left over water after brewing. Now it's all about adjusting the timing since I have to balance the heat with the continuous decrease of water in the boiler.
By they way, how IS the control aspect on the Brikka? From what I can understand, the brewing process is basically: 1) Pressure build-up 2) Complete release. Not much margin for error, don't you think? I feel like I can possibly get away with a lower water temperature though since, even with using only low heat, the design of the pot could prevent the pressure from releasing prematurely. Probably the next step is to remove the pot from the flame completely the moment the pressure gets released and I won't have to worry about the water getting sucked back in again.
This is all based on complete guess work though. Haha. It'd be nice if everything was that simple. Man, I can't wait to buy one.
Nice! But, you know, it might be possible to get away with not decreasing the heat until the flow is steady (at which point you can take the pot off the heat completely and even pour directly).
RaptorHornet Said:
By they way, how IS the control aspect on the Brikka? From what I can understand, the brewing process is basically: 1) Pressure build-up 2) Complete release.
Well, there is a bit of a delay. In my experience, there's often a first short swoosh followed by a complete release lasting a few seconds. Quicker than a regular moka pot (which can already be fairly quick). But you do have a bit of time.
Something to keep in mind: with either method, once there's enough pressure buildup, you can take the device off the heat and pour the coffee right away. It's probably a large part of the reason that I don't get burnt or metallic flavours. The coffee really doesn't spend much time in the upper chamber. As we've discussed in the past but that I haven't tried for the longest time is a moka pot with a ceramic top or a coffeemaker using the moka brewing method but getting the coffee directly in cups. Seems like these could help prevent burning, to an extent. The only one of these I have is something like 15 cups, so I very rarely use it. But I do remember very nice coffee coming out of it.
Oh, and you mentioned the kind of “backflush” effect. It hasn't been much of an issue for me, but it can happen on occasion. The key is probably to make sure coffee flows steadily before you take the pot off the heat or play with the temperature. Again, there's a sweet spot on most stoves where you can leave the pot from beginning (when heat is steady and you can put the pot on it) to end (when coffee flows steadily). In my experience, it's been some kind of medium-hi on most electric stoves, including glasstops. Even full on “hi” might work, in some cases. But this is where burnt flavours might appear. Despite all my warnings against it, it's not the end of the world if you experiment by going all the way there.
Posted Fri Jul 8, 2011, 4:42am Subject: Re: Confessions of a Brikka Lover
Enkerli Said:
Nice! But, you know, it might be possible to get away with not decreasing the heat until the flow is steady (at which point you can take the pot off the heat completely and even pour directly).
You might have something there. During my last brew, I noticed that the spout still kept spitting bubbles almost half a minute after I've already removed it from the stove. It might be that the grind I'm using is fine enough that it's also giving a hand at keeping the pressure in the boiler. I'm actually considering going a click finer for my next brew. If what I'm thinking is right, the correct grind could give it a steady stream instead of the usual fountain spray at the end.
Enkerli Said:
Something to keep in mind: with either method, once there's enough pressure buildup, you can take the device off the heat and pour the coffee right away. It's probably a large part of the reason that I don't get burnt or metallic flavours. The coffee really doesn't spend much time in the upper chamber. As we've discussed in the past but that I haven't tried for the longest time is a moka pot with a ceramic top or a coffeemaker using the moka brewing method but getting the coffee directly in cups. Seems like these could help prevent burning, to an extent. The only one of these I have is something like 15 cups, so I very rarely use it. But I do remember very nice coffee coming out of it.
I see this method working best (and easiest) with 2cup pots. It should also be possible to do it on bigger sized pots but you'll definitely need a pitcher for that one since it's not a good idea to split into cups right away or you'll get concentration issues.
Enkerli Said:
Oh, and you mentioned the kind of “backflush” effect. It hasn't been much of an issue for me, but it can happen on occasion. The key is probably to make sure coffee flows steadily before you take the pot off the heat or play with the temperature. Again, there's a sweet spot on most stoves where you can leave the pot from beginning (when heat is steady and you can put the pot on it) to end (when coffee flows steadily). In my experience, it's been some kind of medium-hi on most electric stoves, including glasstops. Even full on “hi” might work, in some cases. But this is where burnt flavours might appear. Despite all my warnings against it, it's not the end of the world if you experiment by going all the way there.
kbuzbee Senior Member Joined: 2 Feb 2006 Posts: 562 Location: Mentor, Ohio Expertise: I live coffee
Espresso: La Pavoni Europiccola Grinder: Baratza Virtuoso Preciso Vac Pot: Cona D Drip: I don't drip
Posted Fri Jul 8, 2011, 4:57am Subject: Re: Confessions of a Brikka Lover
Enkerli Said:
Even full on “hi” might work, in some cases. But this is where burnt flavours might appear. Despite all my warnings against it, it's not the end of the world if you experiment by going all the way there.
You are right, Alexandre, it can work. Thing is, on "high" there is very close to zero margin for error, IMO. Medium temps give you a bit of a window, which I appreciate.
As you probably noticed, other people have different experiences with the Brikka. Maybe the valve on yours is defective? Happened to a few people. Did you check that the “top-hat” was properly screwed in? Did you try at different heat levels? And how did you “pop the cap”? By tapping it with a knife?
It's not frequent but I think I did have that, on occasion. Probably more when, instead of a very short swoosh, I get a somewhat slower flow out of the “top-hat”.
Posted Sat Jul 9, 2011, 5:24am Subject: Re: Confessions of a Brikka Lover
Looks like going finer was a pretty bad idea. It gave one good contribution though: I now know the difference between "good bitter" and "bad bitter". Today's cup was WAY too much on the bad side to not notice the difference.
I'll be going back to my earlier grind. Maybe do a slightly harder tamp instead to increase resistance. The one I did today was just too much overkill. That's just one of the downsides of a stepped grinder I suppose.
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