brugeswalker Senior Member Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 145 Location: Bruges, Belgium Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: Expobar Pulser Grinder: Cunill Tranquilo SS Drip: Only in the office :-( Roaster: Thinking about it
Posted Mon Dec 27, 2004, 8:13am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
The coffee can be good, it is just that there seems to be a limited interest locally in GREAT coffee. There is an Italian community in Rio, so I am sure there are local places that offer quality espresso.
You might want to check out branches of Armazém do Café as they serve premium Brazilian coffees. There is one on Rua Maria Quitéria in Ipanema, across the way from the Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz.
Confeitaria Martiníca, Rua Visconde de Pirajá and Vinícius de Moraes, is a good place for a café com leite (coffee with milk), also ordered by asking for a média.
Confeitaria Colombo, downtown on Rua Gonçalves Dias, can be expensive but has a very nice Belle Epoque setting for a romantic get together. Save your money for churrascaria - just order the espresso and enjoy the atmosphere.
Look, unless you have to work the next day, there is no reason not to go out every evening - the restaurants are great deals, the clubs are fun and the music is fantastic. I sometimes just wander about neighborhoods and follow the sound of bands playing. If you drink, do try a caipirinha (chopped and crushed limes, sugar, ice, and cachaça/sugar cane alchohol) or two. They are wicked good and potent with a delayed kick.
I usually stay in the Arpoador area, the end of Ipanema closest to Copacabana, because it has the cleanest water in the central area, hopefully avoiding problems stemming from the city's sewage system. You may even want to consider going further south to Recreio dos Bandeirantes to swim to avoid pollution issues. Of course, the best beach excursion has to be Fortaleza if you have the time.
Dehydration and sunstroke are real risks. I highly suggest one or two months membership at your local tanning salon before heading down to Brazil. A dark tan will help protect you from the brilliant sun and help you blend a bit more easily. Make sure your tetanus, polio, hepatitis A, B and C and meningitis jabs are all up to date. Wouldn't hurt to pack a bottle of Kaopectate if you have a sensitive stomach. NYC has some good specialists in tropical diseases, I would call one up two months before you go and get whatever shots they are recommending right now. If you decide to go trekking in Amazonia or anywhere outside the major metropolitan areas, make sure you get shot for dengue fever and take and USE malaria tablets.
BTW, having lived in NYC for five years and having spent a bit of time in Rio, let me assure you that Rio is significantly more risky for the unwary traveler. It can be like strolling through Central Park, Alphabet City or Bedford Stuyvesant at 1AM, but much more atmospheric. Even if you have a dark or olive complexion and dress to mimic the locals, you will stand out and possibly be targeted. If you get mugged, just give up your money (you should be smart enough not to be wearing jewelry or a watch other than a Timex.) You will have a story to tell and, even better, be around to tell it.
nyc_crema Senior Member Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 1,602 Location: New York City Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: Alexia, Silvia Grinder: Mazzer Mini Roaster: Gorilla, Intelligentsia,...
Posted Mon Dec 27, 2004, 8:43am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
brugeswalker Said:
BTW, having lived in NYC for five years and having spent a bit of time in Rio, let me assure you that Rio is significantly more risky for the unwary traveler. It can be like strolling through Central Park, Alphabet City or Bedford Stuyvesant at 1AM, but much more atmospheric. Even if you have a dark or olive complexion and dress to mimic the locals, you will stand out and possibly be targeted. If you get mugged, just give up your money (you should be smart enough not to be wearing jewelry or a watch other than a Timex.) You will have a story to tell and, even better, be around to tell it.
Wow, thanks for all that. I have printed this out and will research those places (like addresses) before I go. I think I'll spend more time on the beach with beer than in a cafe with espresso LOL. As for my saftely, I'll keep that the #1 priority. I keep hearing how dangerous Rio is, so I'll stick with tour stuff. As long as during the DAY there isn't a real threat, then I'll be fine. I don't wear a watch (not even a timex) and I'll be sure not to bring my digital camera (my only real valueable possesion).
brugeswalker Senior Member Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 145 Location: Bruges, Belgium Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: Expobar Pulser Grinder: Cunill Tranquilo SS Drip: Only in the office :-( Roaster: Thinking about it
Posted Mon Dec 27, 2004, 9:22am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
Danger is relative and a little precaution goes a long way. Some people are just naturally targets, others are immune. Rio is one of the most fascinating and beautiful cities in the world and it would be a shame not to check out all it has on offer. Don't do drugs down there, or get really drunk and always be aware of what is happening around you and you should be OK.
The taxi drivers are a very good source of info, but most do not speak English. Portuguese is not all that different than Spanish, and you should be able to communicate even with a couple recent years of school Spanish. Believe me, if you are looking for a bar or nightclub, they know where they are, and will have an opinion about it!
Really the best way to get around is with a local. Even if you don't know anyone, try a Brazilian message board or chat area and you might get a free tour guide and an invitation for coffee even before you leave! Or just sit down at an outdoor cafe once you get there, order a chopp and see what kind of interesting characters show up... it is generally a very friendly culture and it shouldn't be hard to get someone to have a conversation with you. Even easier if you are there solo. ;-)
aaronagre Senior Member Joined: 28 Oct 2011 Posts: 9 Location: washington DC Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Fri Jan 4, 2013, 5:02am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
I just arrived in rio yesterday morning. Staying in Santa Teresa. Places on my list are Rubro Cafe and Amarzem do Cafe. I also plan to swing by confeteria Columbo and also confeitaria Kurt, for the pastries. Ill check back in with an update later this week.
aaronagre Senior Member Joined: 28 Oct 2011 Posts: 9 Location: washington DC Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Sat Jan 5, 2013, 5:48am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
First day was super successful. A little grey with sparse rain but we covered a lot of ground in the Centro area. Included was the Confeiteria Columbo and a small cafe called Besi. The glamorous bustle and pastries at Columbo are worth a brief visit, especially the brigaderos, but it seemed to busy to yield a quality espresso, with waiters rushing around in order to satisfy the thousands of visitors that line up each day(although I'm sure it has passable coffee, seeing as it is such an established confeiteria).
Instead I held out for a surprisingly good shot pulled by a skinny jean-clad young man behind an LM Linea at Besi, a busy cafe also in the Centro. It's the only good coffee I've had since the morning I flew out of DC (Chinatown coffee 5th and h, best in the city). The shot from Besi was accompanied by a cookie crumb and a seltzer chaser. It wasn't the perfect shot, but so many people were ordering them, I had to try it. Plus, a skinny jean wearing barista is always a good sign, right? The food At Besi was great as well, a spread of sandwiches and quiches ranging from 10-15r. I highly recommend it. Finished off the day in Lapa before heading up the hill to our hotel. Heading out to copa, ipanema, and leblon this morning. Keep up with me on twitter And Instagram @aaronagre
aaronagre Senior Member Joined: 28 Oct 2011 Posts: 9 Location: washington DC Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Sun Jan 6, 2013, 11:24am Subject: Re: Anyone been to Brazil?
Yesterday i walked about 8 miles, in flip flops. Started in copa and walked all the way to leblon. Checked out armazem do cafe. Coffee wasn't half bad, wasn't as good as Besi though. We ordered a chocolate quente as well, which was amazing; the chocolate was much richer than the syrups you find in the states. Next on the list is rubro cafe, where I hope to find a few pounds to bring home.
Absolutely. I plan to put up a detailed blog post with maps, pictures, etc. once I am back at my computer. Btw the best shot of the city was rubro cafe. Also, everything you've heard about Brazilian women is true ;]
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