For you other guys that use the Super Jolly, what number do you have your grinder set to?? Mine was right between the 6 and 7, but I thought I would get better results with a finer grind. When I went down to 6, it choked out both my lever machine and my Bucks machine. I tried a lighter tamp, but it channeled really bad. Even at 6.5, I was still having to put a whole lot of weight on the lever of my La Pavoni. Any advice on grind setting for the Mazzer SJ??
The correct answer is the setting that produces the right grind for you. Sadly the setting will be different between different grinders, beans, environments and machines being used to make the espresso.
Remember that the SJ is stepless and you can turn the dial to any place you want (you don't need to worry about the numbers). In fact a very small nudge of the dial can change the shot dramatically. Try moving the dial just enough to see it change (maybe one ridge on the collar edge). Then try again.
Good luck (sorry to not be of more help). Also what beans are you using?
Hi Mike. I see from your previous posts that you purchased a new set of burrs for your SJ. Have you installed them yet? If you suspect your old burrs are dull, install the new set now. All it takes is a flat bladed screwdriver and 10 minutes of your time. Just do it.
As Tim notes, the absolute grind setting is somewhat irrelevant. What's the setting relative to your zero point, where the burrs touch? My SJ espresso setting is about 1-1.5 coarser than the zero point, which is in the 1.5-2 range on the dial (almost exactly opposite your setting). Older, darker roasts require a slightly finer grind setting, but not more than a few small notches.
A light tamp should not cause significant channeling. Some folks advocate extremely light tamps, especially for multiple pulls on lever machines. Focus on your grind, dose, and distribution instead.
I have not installed the new burrs yet. When I went down to a finer grind, I did notice bigger clumps in the basket. Is this normal?? I used a toothpick to stir things around. I'm sure this will seem like a silly question, but isn't it enough to just fill up the basket? I fill the basket over the top, then level it with the top of the basket using my finger. Then I tamp. I try turning the portafilter as I slap the lever, to get better distribution.
More clumping is to be expected at finer grind levels but as already pointed out - there is no exact perfect spot that you'll use all the tiem on one grinder. I have owned and used multiple SJ's and although most of them have a zero point similar to the others (in terms of its position on the numbering scale) it will vary quite a bit on some units. I just refurbed a grinder that has a zero point quite different from my previous units and also markedly different from the position of the factory applied sticker.
Also keep in mind - if you're experimenting with different beans and different espresso blends you may see a need for fairly significant changes. But once you dial it in correctly for a given bean or blend - the ongoing changes required due to aging of the beans or changes in humidity etc. are likley to be minimal - just one tiny notch at a time.
I used to weigh and grind by the shot for every drink but have taken to just tossing a half pound in the hopper and using it up within five days or so. When it gets down much below the 1/8 full level (I'm using the standard Mini hopper on a Super Jolly) I have to either add more beans or tighten my grind a bit because the flow of beans from hopper into burrs is slower at that point. You've probably seen the popcorning where a single dose bounces around in the grinder throat - right? When the hopper gets low but not empty that is already occurring to some degree and does seem to have an effect on grind level (grind appears to get coarser).
By the way - get those new burrs installed! Even if the old ones feel or look sharp you're almost sure to see a big improvement in the grind once you swap.
I don't have the hopper on my machine. I only have time to use my machine on the weekend (I know, sorry excuse!). I basically put beans in to the top of the grind adjustment disc, then place my hand flat over the top while the grinder is going. I can feel the beans hitting my hand. That's usually enough beans for one good shot, then I have to add more for a second shot. I'll get those burrs replaced ASAP, as I trust your judgement and experience with these grinders.
Some speculation: Most clumping occurs in the horizontal exit chute from the burr chamber, where coffee grinds build up and eventually extrude under pressure from more grinds. Coffee beans grind more quickly on a coarse setting, and the grinds are ejected more forcefully from the burr chamber. This gives them less opportunity to build up and clump. In addition, the physical properties of a finer grind seem to encourage clumping.
Should I go ahead and remove the finger guard? I can't get into the exit chute very well with that thing in place. What actually holds that piece in? I know there are two screws right on top, but is there another screw underneath it?
Yes - remove the useless finger guard (unless you feel compelled to stick a finger up the chute while the burrs are turning - in which case it woudl be useful ;-). It's been awhile since I removed one but I think it's just those two screws.
If you have a 57mm or 58mm heavyweight tamper handy - like a Reg Barber - stick that in on top of the beans when grinding. The added weight and the fact that it slides down into the grinder throat as the beans enter the burrs is a big help in reducing popcorning.
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