So my group head gasket finally gave up. It was leaking every shot, I gave it a few months to come good on its own and no surprise it didn't. Six years is pretty good going from one gasket. It was split right through and completely brittle so it came out in pieces as it wouldn't bend: Click Here (i1214.photobucket.com)
Unfortunately it seems I have had a habit of over-tightening the shower screen screw, it snapped as I removed it: Click Here (i1214.photobucket.com)
Look for a vice grip or pliers that have a smaller tip or grind what you have to fit. You should be able to turn it if you can grip it. If for whatever reason you can not get to it, the only other choice would be to remove the GH from the machine and drill it then use a screw extractor or drill it out and put a thread insert in the oversize hole, neither of these later two options are as good as the first and the best option moving on from now is to not crank down on that screw! It really only needs to be snug, not tight at all but, as they say, that is water under the bridge now.
OH, btw, that gasket should be changed about every 6 months or so, buy a few so they are on hand and you save the shipping cost.
In real life, my name is Wayne P.
Feed the newbs, starve the trolls and above all enjoy what you drink!
I can't see the pics (it's me, not you) but - can you use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to make a slot in the end of what's left of the screw/ Then use a flat tip screwdriver to get it out? A similar approach has worked for me in the past on other snapped screws.
There's also a product called "PB Blaster" that works wonders for freeing up bolts on cars, much better than WD-40 or similar as it's actually intended for the job. This is different as you're not freeing up something rusted together, but I wonder if it might still help?
Look for a vice grip or pliers that have a smaller tip or grind what you have to fit. You should be able to turn it if you can grip it. If for whatever reason you can not get to it, the only other choice would be to remove the GH from the machine and drill it then use a screw extractor or drill it out and put a thread insert in the oversize hole, neither of these later two options are as good as the first and the best option moving on from now is to not crank down on that screw! It really only needs to be snug, not tight at all but, as they say, that is water under the bridge now.
OH, btw, that gasket should be changed about every 6 months or so, buy a few so they are on hand and you save the shipping cost.
I can't see the pics (it's me, not you) but - can you use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to make a slot in the end of what's left of the screw/ Then use a flat tip screwdriver to get it out? A similar approach has worked for me in the past on other snapped screws.
There's also a product called "PB Blaster" that works wonders for freeing up bolts on cars, much better than WD-40 or similar as it's actually intended for the job. This is different as you're not freeing up something rusted together, but I wonder if it might still help?
I might try a combination of these methods... I think the stub is too small to cut a slot in it, but a dremel might allow me to put two flat edges onto the stub so I can grip it with suitably small pliers. I always wanted an excuse to buy a dremel...
I've had that spare gasket for the last five years...
Closeup pic attached, that might work better. Wow 75kb limit, had to smash it down to almost nothing...
OK so I got a dremel ($40 with flex extension and a bunch of tools, expected to last maybe two weeks if I don't use it too often).
Cut down the screw so I could get a grip with vise grip bought especially for the job.
Got a nice tight grip, then used another set of pliers to hold the vise grips together firmly while I gently turned the screw which promptly sheared off flush.
One more go, I'll cut a slot in brass and screw both with a narrow dremel disk. If that doesn't work I guess this things getting chopped up for parts.
If there's still a thread or two exposed then you might be able to epoxy a nut on the end. Use an oversized waxed paper "washer" against the brass to prevent bonding to the group, then glob some JB Weld onto the stud, and thread a nut on as far as possible. Let it set up than try removing with a socket.
Don't scrap the machine. Worst case, you can replace the brass grouphead assembly. Best case you can drill out the stud once the grouphead is removed from the machine.
Im afraid I have a similar problem in that my screw head is wallowed out ,has been for a while.So today I cut a whole in the bottom plate so I can easily drill it and remove the screw with an easy out or rethread it.Next time Ill find a stainless steel screw .Im letting it sit overnight with a couple of drops of thread oil on the screw. Don
All because of one screw... I now have a brand new Rancilio Silvia with PID controller transferred and an old Silvia for spares. Actually it still works, makes coffee just the same if you carefully put the shower screen and distributor washer on top of the grounds after tamping.
The new one is nice and shiny though...
I know a lot of people would have taken the opportunity to upgrade to a dual boiler/rotary pump/jet powered/atomic machine, but my coffee making technique suits this machine rather well... I never use the steam, I microwave my milk and sugar for a precise length of time and draw the shot straight into that. Never miss all that foam and scorched milk taste...
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