saborcafe Senior Member Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 39 Location: MI Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Thu May 1, 2014, 9:22am Subject: Rebuilding PROCON Pump
I recently acquired a Rancilio S20 machine for restoration and among the problems it had, the PROCON pump Series 2 was leaking water from the "weep" holes. I started looking online for tips on rebuilding it and most people said to not dissemble it as they could not easily be repaired. I looked at prices online and said might as well take it apart and see what the fuzz is about. In conclusion, I was able to rebuild the pump without breaking any old parts and only using one special tool, a slide hammer; which a lot of people have so it might not be so special.
1- Remove the large lock ring, cover plate, O-ring (use snap ring or needle nose pliers). 2- Loosen rotor using a press, c-clamp, or hammer. (I removed mine with a hammer, tapped very lightly and it easily slipped out!). 3- Remove rotor and front bearing (they should come out as one piece). The liner and rear bearing stayed inside the pump for me, to be removed later) 4- Pull ball bearing out using a slide hammer with a curved tip, grabbing the inner race (a couple taps and my bearing came out unharmed!). 5- Remove small retaining ring 6- Remove "Mechanical Seal Assembly" (this is what failed for me; the rubber on the part with the spring rotted and allowed water to go through). 7- Remove rear bearing and liner by punching them out from the ball bearing side (I used the largest socket that fit to punch it out completely unharmed!)
Aside from the OVP, the whole pump should be dissembled. Technically if I could find the part with the spring I could put this whole thing back together and be good given that nothing broke. I searched online and called a couple of places but no one wanted to give information on the part. The seal had "John Crane" stamped on it but they do not sell to the public. The cheapest replacement kit I could find was from EDCO which cost about $35 plus crazy shipping and it came with absolutely everything! Even the OVP O-rings.
To assemble, I slightly sanded the innards of the housing to remove scale and started by: 1- Getting everything wet with water for better lubrication 2- Assemble rear bearing, rotor with vanes, liner, front bearing, and pin as a one piece unit. 3- Insert whole unit into housing and work it in using some force (I was surprised how easily this went in! It was amazing). 4- Install O-ring, plate and snap ring (should be nice and tight). 5- Insert mechanical seal and lock ring at the other side of the housing. 6- Place the bearing on the rotor and punch into rotor and pump housing (I used a socket that was about the same diameter as the outer race on the ball bearing). The bearing went in fairly easy.
Step 6 is the most scary one because you could argue that the graphite bearing is taking the load, but the rotor actually protrudes a little bit from the bearing so the "nameplate" should take the impact (make sure you support it). Go easy hitting the ball bearing and you should be fine.
The order of steps can obviously be changed but I just wanted to share my first experience in rebuilding one of these which I am assuming I did OK given the fact that nothing broke. I will post pictures of the process momentarily. The pump turned out cheaper to fix than buying a new one, having the said company rebuild it, or buying a used one online. It also saved on shipping time and most importantly I learned something.
By the way, in case you were wondering the pump works great!
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