Posted Sat Aug 7, 2004, 10:48am Subject: Cliffnotes for PIDing Isomac Amica / Zaffiro
My project while away at the beach? Of course, PID'ing an Amica! The thread "I really need help with PIDing Amica" was very helpful, as is "PID Isomac Single Boiler Machine", which discusses the internally-equivalent Zaffiro. This post summarizes my notes, which I hope others may find useful. There isn't any new information, just a quick checklist. Corrections are welcome.
Update: Also see "Bionic Zaffiro" for a very nice PID installation by Michael Teahan.
I used the boiler well with a thermocouple that fits in snug as can be. I noticed some overshoot. My workaround is to cut off the controller using a toggle switch on the lead going to the SSR before pulling the shot and 15-20 seconds afterwards to allow the temperature to stabilize -- usually around 180F. After that it ramps up without problem. This also eliminates the "pump pulse" caused by the heating element flicking on-and-off during the shot.
Key parts list: (everything from TTI Global)
Style LC Low-Cost Hollow-Tube Thermocouple (part number LCJ1-G250-A005-BGN-024AN LOW = type J, single junction, 1/4" OD, 5" sheath length A, stranded, 24" lead wire length B)
SSR 230V/25A OUT, DC IN, ZERO SWITCHING, part number RS1A23D25 (sorry, no link; part search found it)
Total cost $163.67.
Installing the parts:
Murph's PID instructions are great. Here's a few reminders:
It is easy to power the controller by tapping the wires leading to the power-on lamp (pins 8 & 9, any order)
Pay attention to the order of the TC wires in pins 2 & 3. Red wire in pin 2
In a nutshell, you're plugging the leads from the old thermostat to the top of the SSR (power out) and the bottom leads (signal in) to pins 4 & 5.
Setting up the temperature controller:
Below are the "2nd block" parameters. Press and hold the SEL button until P is displayed. Scroll down until you see the symbol below; press SEL again to select and up/down to change. Press SEL to go to the next parameter:
P ignore, will be set by autotune I ignore, will be set by autotune d ignore, will be set by autotune Note: Some set to zero after auto-tuning; I left it as-is since overshoot is not a problem with the cutoff switch HYS...db skip CTrL set to FUZY (algorithm) TC set to 1 (cycle time in seconds) P-n2 set to 2 for type J, 3 for type K, 7 for type T thermocouple P-SL set to 32F (lower limit) P-SU set to 300F (upper limit) P-dP set to 0 (no decimal point)
Auto-tuning the temperature controller:
Let the machine heat up completely. To start auto-tune, press and hold the SEL button until STbY is displayed (1st parameter block). Scroll down to AT (the T looks like a backwards 7). Press SEL and select 1, standard AT start. It takes a fairly long time, although I didn't time it. The values it determined were P = 6.0, I = 120, d = 23.1.
Just as follow-up, I've been borrowing Dan's PID'ed Amica the past few days, and the performance is fabulous.
Having previously demo'ed a Zaffiro, I can only say that a PID'ed version (Amica base in this case) is even more impressive. Personally, I like the styling of the Amica a bit better I must say.
The shots I have pulled so far are superb. The Amica has pulled excellent, high quality dark brown crema with tiger flecking, and the taste is outstanding. This PID'ed machine is definitely the equal of my PID'ed Silvia, if not imperceptibly better. If nothing else, the Amica seems to come up to temp faster than Silvia due to the E61 GH. Very nice.
I've not noticed any of the overshoot problems that Dan did (although I don't pull shots with machine gun rapidity like Dan does), and I've not noticed much motor strain when pulling shots with the PID still pulsing the heating coil. So, I've left the SSR switch ON without any issue.
This definitely strikes me as a no brainer mod. For the shot-purist, I would have a hard time envisioning a better setup than a PID'ed Zaffiro/Amica.
I've got the Isomac Venus -- isomac's single boiler silvia knockoff.
do you think this machine would be a similar install for the mod?
or do you think the machine is even worthy of the mod?
i spent the weekend recoiling the pressure release spring to work flawless at 9bar, and i just fired off an email to chris coffee asking them for suggestions on new dispersion plates and screens (the venus ones are pretty crappy, they're promoting channeling below each hole)
i've got the upgrade fever, not in terms of buying new units, but hot-rodding my venus -- as i still think she's the best looking home machine for me.
The Venus would be a perfect one for a PID. For one, the thermoclicks shipped for some time (and maybe still shipping) were so far off as to make the machine near unusable. Two, even if the thermoclicks were properly spec'ed, the deadband will still be huge.
For me, PID'ing the Venus is the same argument as PID'ing a Silvia, and there are plenty of PID'ed Silvia's out there!
Re installation, you would have to look. If the thermoclicks mount on a screw, I would just order a washer TC and do the mod per the Murph pages for Silvia.
Do a search on the part #'s on alt.coffee and you will see some of the exchange. There really wasn't much difference between the two, at least as I remember, but a few folks had preference for one or the other.
You could also call TTI Global to see what they think.
If you're careful installing the new parts and save all the old stuff, you can put the machine back to stock configuration when you move the PID to your next machine ;-)
"Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." A. Brilliant
I've collected all the parts! One piece of information seems absent from the post and the discussions that follow; what is an appropriate first setting for the setpoint temp? Also, should autotuning be re-initiated after each setpoint change?
Mark_C Senior Member Joined: 4 Jan 2004 Posts: 28 Location: Singapore Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: La Marzocco GS3 Grinder: Mazzer Super Jolly
Posted Mon Oct 10, 2005, 10:40am Subject: Re: Cliffnotes for PIDing Isomac Amica / Zaffiro
I've placed an order for the PID parts from TTI based on Dan's list and TTI says that the thermocouple is a made-to-order part that will take 2-3 weeks for delivery. This makes me wonder if I've accidentally ordered the wrong thing, as I had assumed that this was all off-the-shelf stuff. My order looks like it tracks exactly to what's on Dan's list...but can anyone who knows this better than I do (which is pretty much everyone!) take a look at my thermocouple specs listed below and confirm that it's correct? Also, even if it's correct, is there a good alternative that won't take 2-3 weeks (I'm raring to go on this!)?
Thanks for the help! Mark
LCJ1-G250-A005-BGN-024AN 1 $12.67 $12.67 Low-Cost Hollow-Tube Thermocouple Calibration Code: J Type, ANSI Standard Tolerances Number of Junctions: Single (Standard) Junction (Dual ungrounded and exposed junctions are isolated): Grounded Sheath O.D.: 1/4" Sheath Material: 304 SS Sheath Length "A" in inches <br>(for lengths over 999" consult TTI): 5" Lead Wire Construction: Stranded Lead Wire Insulation: Fiberglass (900ºF/482ºC) Lead Wire Protection: None Lead Wire Length "B" in inches <br>(for lengths over 999" consult TTI): 24" Termination: 3/4" Stripped Leads Special Limits of Error: None
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